Moon Vancouver Read online

  VANCOUVER

  CAROLYN B. HELLER

  CONTENTS

  Index

  Maps

  Discover Vancouver

  10 Top Experiences

  Explore Vancouver

  Planning Your Trip

  Neighborhoods

  Sights

  Restaurants

  Nightlife

  Arts and Culture

  Sports and Activities

  Shops

  Where to Stay

  Victoria and Vancouver Island

  Whistler and the Sea-to-Sky-Highway

  Background

  Essentials

  Resources

  Overview Map

  MAPS

  Overview Map

  1 Downtown and the West End

  2 Gastown and Chinatown

  3 Yaletown and False Creek

  4 Granville Island

  5 A UBC and Point Grey

  5 B Kitsilano

  6 Cambie Corridor

  7 Commercial Drive

  8 Richmond

  9 The North Shore

  DISCOVER VANCOUVER

  Vancouver cuts a dramatic urban figure. Set on Pacific coastal inlets with forested mountains beyond, it’s frequently named one of the world’s most livable cities. When you stroll along the waterfront, or through rainforest parks where evergreens reach the sky, it’s easy to see why. Steel-and-glass towers grow like cedars on the downtown peninsula, but in green Vancouver, you’re never far from a beach, a mountain, or a public park.

  When the sun shines (and even when it doesn’t), Vancouverites are outdoors, running or cycling on the seaside paths, kayaking local waters, or sipping a pour-over coffee or local craft beer in a sidewalk café. And unlike in many North American cities, where the city center empties out when the office workers go home, many Vancouver residents live and work downtown, keeping the streets active from early morning into the night.

  Home to roughly two million people, Vancouver looks to the Pacific Rim. More than 40 percent of the metro area’s population is of Asian descent, influencing everything from art and urban design to food. Vancouver boasts the best Chinese cuisine outside China.

  The aboriginal people who’ve lived on this continent for thousands of years have also made their mark on the city. Vancouver has several museums, galleries, and other attractions where you can explore First Nations culture. An extensive collection of native art at the airport welcomes visitors to the region.

  Vancouver is a convenient starting point for trips along the British Columbia coast, north to the mountain resort of Whistler or across the Strait of Georgia to B.C.’s capital city of Victoria. There’s much to explore in this part of the world, and it all starts here.

  Lions Gate Bridge, Vancouver (click here)

  ferry traveling between Vancouver and Victoria (click here)

  view from the Vancouver Lookout (click here)

  Olympic rings in Whistler (click here)

  Pacific Rim National Park Reserve (click here)

  Kitsilano Beach (click here)

  10 TOP EXPERIENCES

  1 Stanley Park: The rainforest meets the city in this 1,000-acre parkland, which is crisscrossed with walking trails (click here).

  2 Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden: This Chinatown oasis was the first authentic Ming Dynasty garden built outside of China (click here).

  3 Granville Island Public Market: Nibble away the day on charcuterie, cheeses, pastries, fudge, and other treats (click here).

  4 Museum of Anthropology: This striking modern museum illuminates the culture of British Columbia’s aboriginal peoples and traditional cultures from around the world (click here).

  5 Chinese Food: More than half the population is of Asian descent in Richmond, where you can dig into some of the best Chinese food in North America (click here).

  6 Craft Breweries: A growing number of craft breweries and micro-distilleries welcome visitors for sampling and sipping (click here).

  7 Grouse Mountain: Ride the tram up this North Shore peak for mountaintop hiking trails, a wildlife refuge, and spectacular views (click here).

  8 Outdoor Adventures: You don’t have to venture far from the city center to experience the rainforest, the mountains, or the sea, whether on a hiking trail, a ski run, or a paddling route (click here).

  9 Aboriginal Culture: Stay in Canada’s first aboriginal arts hotel, sample traditional foods at a First Nations bistro, paddle a dugout canoe, and shop for works by contemporary native artists (click here).

  10 Day Trip to Victoria: Ferry across the Strait of Georgia for a day trip to visit world-class Butchart Gardens, take afternoon tea at the grand Fairmont Empress Hotel, or go whale-watching (click here).

  EXPLORE VANCOUVER

  THE BEST OF VANCOUVER

  In just a few days, you can experience the best of Vancouver, combining outdoor activities, cultural explorations, and time for strolling, snacking, and sipping. Vancouver’s public transit system makes it easy to get around without a car; this itinerary includes tips for the most convenient transit options.

  DAY 1: DOWNTOWN AND GRANVILLE ISLAND

  Get your first glance of the city and orient yourself with the 360-degree view from the observation platform at the Vancouver Lookout downtown. Save your ticket to return later for the nighttime views.

  Catch bus 50 on Granville Street to Granville Island. Browse the stalls and stop for a morning snack in the Granville Island Public Market, before checking out the galleries and shops in the Net Loft, on Railspur Alley, and throughout the island. Don’t miss the museum-quality aboriginal art at the Eagle Spirit Gallery.

  downtown Vancouver

  BEST VIEWS

  Vancouver is a city of amazing views, so keep your camera handy.

  CANADA PLACE

  The white sails of Canada Place are one of Vancouver’s most recognizable landmarks. Follow the walkway for up-close views, with the water and mountains beyond (click here).

  VANCOUVER LOOKOUT

  From this downtown tower, you have 360-degree vistas across the city, overlooking Stanley Park, Gastown, and other districts. It’s a good place to get oriented (click here).

  STANLEY PARK

  Follow the Seawall around Stanley Park for views across Burrard Inlet to the city skyline and North Shore mountains. At one point, you’ll pass under the Lions Gate Bridge, which makes a dramatic photo backdrop (click here).

  OLYMPIC VILLAGE

  Stop along False Creek near the Olympic Village to snap photos of city landmarks, including Science World and B.C. Place stadium. You’ll have good views of the downtown skyline (click here).

  GROUSE MOUNTAIN

  On a clear day, the vistas from the top of Grouse Mountain stretch north toward Howe Sound, over Burrard Inlet, and across metropolitan Vancouver (click here).

  LIGHTHOUSE PARK

  Located on the North Shore, this West Vancouver park offers beautiful views across the water toward downtown (click here).

  For lunch, return to the Public Market or sit down for a more leisurely meal, highlighting Canadian products, at Edible Canada Bistro.

  To start your afternoon on an active note, rent a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard at Ecomarine Paddlesports Centre and spend an hour paddling around the island. Back on land, refresh yourself with a sake sampling at the Artisan Sake Maker or a craft cocktail made from the small-batch spirits at Liberty Distilling before catching the bus back downtown.

  Your next stop is the Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art, which shows works by a noted First Nations artist. Nearby, you can wander the exhibits at the Vancouver Art Gallery, making sure to see paintings by B.C.’s renowned Emily Carr.

  In the late afternoon, rent a bike and take a l
eisurely ride along the Seawall in Stanley Park, stopping to see the totem poles at Brockton Point, then pedal past landmark Siwash Rock. Pause to rest at English Bay Beach, which is also one of Vancouver’s best spots to watch the sun set over the ocean. Across the street from the beach, smile at A-maze-ing Laughter, a public art piece comprising 14 grinning bronze figures.

  Siwash Rock, Stanley Park

  Have dinner downtown, perhaps the imaginative contemporary fare at Royal Dinette or a creative pizza at Nightingale, then return to the Vancouver Lookout to gaze over the city’s twinkling lights.

  DAY 2: UBC, GASTOWN, AND CHINATOWN

  Enjoy breakfast at Forage or Medina Café before exploring more of the city’s cultural highlights.

  From Granville Street, catch bus 4 or 14 west to the University of British Columbia and the Museum of Anthropology. This first-rate museum has a particularly strong collection of First Nations art, including an awe-inspiring gallery of totem poles. After exploring the museum, take a walk through the serene Nitobe Japanese Garden nearby.

  When you’re finished on campus, take bus 4 back toward Kitsilano for lunch on West 4th Avenue: Thai food at Maenam or French bistro fare at Au Comptoir. Check out the 4th Avenue shops before stopping for dessert at Beaucoup Bakery & Café or a shot of rich hot chocolate from Chocolate Arts.

  Bus 4 or 7 will take you from Kits to Gastown. Walk along Water Street, watch the Gastown Steam Clock toot its steam whistle, and stop into several of the First Nations art galleries, like Hill’s Native Art.

  Continue into Chinatown for a late-afternoon tour of the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, the only authentic Ming Dynasty garden outside China.

  Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden

  Stay in Chinatown for dinner. Try the unusual combination of Italian and Japanese elements at speakeasy-style Kissa Tanto or share modern Canadian plates at Juniper Kitchen & Bar. After your meal, have a drink at the Keefer Bar, or take a cab back downtown for a nightcap at Uva Wine & Cocktail Bar or elegant Prohibition Lounge.

  DAY 3: THE NORTH SHORE

  Today, you’re exploring the mountains and rainforests on Vancouver’s North Shore. Catch the free shuttle from Canada Place to Grouse Mountain. If you’re up for a challenge, walk up the Grouse Grind, a trail nicknamed “Mother Nature’s Stairmaster.” But there’s no shame in taking the Skyride; it’s North America’s largest tram system. At the top, laugh at the lumberjack show, explore the wildlife refuge, and go for a short hike. The views are spectacular on a clear day.

  Come down the mountain, and at the Grouse entrance, catch bus 236 to the Capilano Suspension Bridge. This 450-foot (137-meter) span swings over a canyon high above the Capilano River. If you’re feeling brave, follow the Cliffwalk, a series of boardwalks cantilevered over the rushing river. Do you dare stand on the glass platform and look down (way down!)?

  Get back on bus 236 to Lonsdale Quay. Stop for a drink, with views of the city skyline, at Pier 7 Restaurant & Bar, a short walk from the quay. Then take the SeaBus across the Burrard Inlet to Waterfront Station downtown.

  Have dinner in Gastown, where L’Abbatoir serves French-accented west coast fare on the site of Vancouver’s first jail or stylish Chambar combines flavors of North Africa and Belgium with local ingredients.

  With More Time

  DAY 4: RICHMOND

  Ride the Canada Line to spend a day in Vancouver’s “new Chinatown” in the city of Richmond. First up: dim sum in the Golden Village along No. 3 Road. At Golden Paramount Seafood Restaurant, choose from a mix of traditional and modern Hong Kong-style plates, or at Su Hang Restaurant, try Shanghai-style dim sum.

  After you’ve eaten, catch bus 403 southbound along No. 3 Road to the International Buddhist Temple, one of the largest Chinese Buddhist temples in North America. Visitors are welcome to tour the gardens and the peaceful temple complex.

  From the temple, head to the village of Steveston, an active fishing port where the Asian communities have historic roots. Visiting the Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site or the Britannia Shipyards National Historic Site will introduce you to the area’s multicultural history. Walk along the wharf, where fishing boats sell their fresh catch. Pajo’s on the pier makes first-rate fish–and-chips.

  Bus 402, 407, or 410 will take you back to the Golden Village, where you can browse the Asian shops at Aberdeen Centre.

  If you’re in town on a Friday, Saturday, or Sunday between mid-May and mid-October, take the Canada Line to Bridgeport Station for the Richmond Night Market. Graze your way through this Asian-style festival of street foods from China, Taiwan, Japan, and more. Return downtown on the Canada Line.

  DAY 5: CAMBIE CORRIDOR AND EAST VANCOUVER

  From downtown, take bus 17 to VanDusen Botanical Garden and spend your morning strolling among the blossoms. When you’re ready to eat, hop on a northbound bus 17 for lunch at Salmon n’ Bannock, a modern aboriginal bistro.

  Continue east on Broadway to the Cambie Corridor to browse the neighborhood’s boutiques. There’s a cluster of shops near Main and Broadway, and more clothing and accessories purveyors on Main between 20th and 30th Avenues (if you don’t want to walk, bus 3 can take you along Main Street).

  When you’re done shopping, it’s time for a beer crawl to try the city’s craft breweries. Both 33 Acres Brewing and Brassneck Brewery are a short walk from the intersection of Broadway and Main.

  For a more serious exploration of Vancouver’s microbrewery scene, head for the Commercial Drive and East Village neighborhoods. Parallel 49 Brewing Company has a large tasting room that’s a popular neighborhood gathering spot. To sample some spirits, visit Odd Society Spirits, a small-batch distillery in a former motorcycle garage. To get here from Broadway and Main, take bus 99 eastbound on Broadway to Commercial Drive, then change to bus 20 going north and get off on Hastings Street.

  When you’ve tasted your fill, bus 4 or 7 (on Powell St.) or bus 14 or 16 (on Hastings St.) will bring you back downtown for dinner at lively Guu Garden (a Japanese izakaya) or at Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar for local seafood in a stylish setting.

  VANCOUVER WITH KIDS

  With so many outdoor attractions, cool ways to get around the city, and kid-friendly restaurants, Vancouver is a fantastic destination for families. Whether you’re exploring a rainforest park, riding a ferry, or following the Dumpling Trail, Vancouver serves up plenty of family-focused fun. Tip: Always ask about special family rates or discounts when you’re buying tickets to any sights or attractions.

  DAY 1: STANLEY PARK

  Pack a picnic lunch and spend the day in Stanley Park, Vancouver’s rainforest green space at the end of the downtown peninsula. Visit the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre first (it’s less crowded in the mornings), then enjoy your picnic near Lost Lagoon.

  After lunch, rent bikes to explore more of the park; there are several rental shops just outside the park’s West Georgia Street entrance. Follow the Seawall to see the majestic totem poles at Brockton Point, stop to cool off in the splash park near Lumberman’s Arch, and let the kids play in the sand or go for a swim at Second Beach, where there’s a large pool, restrooms, and snack bar.

  For dinner, try one of the Asian restaurants downtown. Most kids enjoy watching the dumpling makers at work at Dinesty Dumpling House, or you can dig into Japanese-style hot dogs at Japadog.

  BEST PEOPLE-WATCHING

  Many of the city’s top people-watching locales are beaches and walkways. For more urban people-spotting, head for Gastown, Yaletown, or Granville Island.

  THE SEAWALL

  Stroll the Seawall in Yaletown, the West End, or near the Olympic Village, particularly on a weekend afternoon or summer evening. You’ll have plenty of company (click here).

  GRANVILLE ISLAND

  Sit outside along the water behind the Granville Island Public Market to survey an endless parade of tourists hopping on and off the tiny False Creek ferries, locals taking a break from shopping, and kayakers out for
some exercise (click here).

  YALETOWN

  Bars and restaurants with outdoor seating line Hamilton and Mainland Streets. Try WildTale Coastal Grill, where you can spot well-dressed millennials out for an evening and yoga mat-toting residents on their way home from the studio (click here).

  GASTOWN

  Watch the world go by from the always-packed patio at Chill Winston, opposite the Gassy Jack statue in Maple Tree Square (click here).

  ENGLISH BAY BEACH

  On the downtown peninsula near Stanley Park, this curve of sand attracts local seniors, gay couples, hordes of visitors, and pretty much anyone who wants to enjoy the views across the water. It’s especially busy at sunset (click here).

  KITSILANO BEACH

  Serious beach volleyball enthusiasts, families with kids, groups of UBC students, and sunbathers congregate at busy Kits Beach (click here).

  DAY 2: GRANVILLE ISLAND AND FALSE CREEK

  Buy a day pass for the Aquabus ferry, so you can hop on and off these cute little boats as you travel around Granville Island and False Creek. Take the Aquabus to Science World and spend the morning exploring the hands-on exhibits. When it’s time for lunch, cruise over to Granville Island, where there are plenty of family-friendly food options in the Granville Island Public Market.